Revisiting Trinidad de Cuba

My first time in Trinidad de Cuba was in 2003.

There have been some changes since then, as the city has taken on a much more tourist friendly attitude and is reflected in the increased number of shops and restaurants.

Trinidad de Cuba, the province of , Sancti Spíritus, was founded December 23, 1514, by a rich Basque landowner from central Cuba. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988.

The main economy is tobacco processing, but tourism is an increasing source of income for the residents of Trinidad.  In years past, Trinidad was a cultural center with theaters and music schools, and a haven for silver and goldsmiths. Today, there are, of course, the tourist shops, but also some very good street markets where you can find some authentic Cuban handicrafts, including textiles.

We visited a number of the old villas or palaces, which are now museums and then walked across the plaza to the Santísima Trinidad Cathedral, which is the largest operating church in Cuba. It is very ornate, with many side alters dedicated to various saints and the Virgin Mary.

In some free time I walked from the Iberostar, which is a 40-room, boutique hotel on a wonderful plaza, and had a quick meal at a tiny private restaurant. My meal was a large ham, egg and cheese sandwich and two Cristal beers, a local Cuba brew. My total cost: 7.50 Cuban Pesos, which is about $9 US. But it was my bar amigo who was most interesting. He told me he was a “professor.” I asked of what, and he said “tourists.” Meanwhile, the well dressed bartender (and owner, I imagine) was rolling his eyes. I think the “professor” was making a bar-to-bar study of the visitors who came to Trinidad and his podium was the bar and his lecture was to anybody who would listen. Still, he was extremely friendly, and as I left he wished me a great stay.

Back at the Iberostar, our group had decided to stay in and have a pizza party, featuring some very good pizza (thin crust). I begged a few slices and was impressed, and I am from Chicago, known for pizza.

All of Trinidad is a living museum, and it is frozen in time, because of the shifts of economy during the Industrial Revolution of the 19th Century, so everywhere you go you are walking on old cobble rock streets, passing ancient houses with red tile roofs, and listening to the music, which is everywhere.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Speaking of music, I have noticed now that every meal seems to come with a band. And every band come with a $10 CD. Some people like that and some don’t. I don’t mind it too much, but like home, I sometimes pay them to go away.

The one thing about Trinidad is that they do need the soaps, the lotions and the medical supplies that we bring. There is such a lack of things that we can easily buy at dollar stores or that we get from hotel stays. You just wish you could bring more, because more is always needed.

I stepped outside the Cathedral and an artist was doing pen and ink drawings of the plaza, and he asked me “when it will all end.”  He meant the United States imposed travel and trade embargo.  I shrugged. “Soon?” I said with doubt.  Fifty plus years now, so who knows.  “Yes,” said the artist, “that would be good.”  We both knew that “soon” in the political world can be decades.

If you see nothing else in Cuba, see Trinidad.  It is so beautiful and the people so friendly. You will love it.

ricardo

Guest blogger Rich Davis is the Ya’lla Tours Midwest regional sales manager.
He is currently escorting a group in Cuba. Internet connection from Cuba is spotty, so I don’t have Rich’s photos yet. I wanted to get his post up to stay as current as possible, so included some images from previous trips. We’ll do a post of Rich’s photos in the near future.

A Night in the Sahara Desert of Morocco, Berber Style

Morocco Sahara Desert Camp

Morocco Sahara Desert Camp

In my last post, I wrote about riding camels in the Sahara desert of Morocco to a Berber camp and watching the sunrise the next morning from the top of a 300 ft dune. Now I’ll tell you about what happened in between. The Berber camp was set up just for our group, not an actual camp where Berbers lived but done in the Berber way, with traditional camel-hair tents, a central fire pit and carpets laid on the sand, connecting everything. Inside the tents the ground was also covered with carpets. The low-frame beds were surprisingly cozy, with thick mattresses and warm, heavy blankets. This was November, so the temps dropped into the 40s at night. Everyone packed warm clothes for this experience and I heard no complaints.

Our camp consisted of about 20 tents. Besides the sleeping tents, there was a cooking tent, a dining tent and tents with toilets and showers. We have since changed to  sleeping tents with ensuite toilets, sinks and showers.

When the sun went down, we mingled around the roaring fire pit with drinks and hors d’oeuvres. Dinner was elaborate, perfectly prepared and presented. How they managed a 5-star dining experience out of a tent, I don’t know; thousands of years of experience, I suppose. In the dining tent, the tables were beautifully set, with carpets underfoot and torches ablaze. One side of the tent remained open to the cool night. We had salads and soup and bread and tagine, trays of assorted sweets and a great volume of wine.

For me, the next chapter in the evening came on like a dream. I may have actually been nodding off, sitting at the dinner table in a warm, glowing space, lulled by the surrounding conversations, a little overfed, 60% sober, both fully present and having a vision of our tent from high above, an ember in a great black void (ok, 40% sober). In the midst of this trippy bliss I watched a striking group of men materialize outside, just at the edge of the light from the dining tent; our evening’s entertainment. The party was just getting started.

I remember the drums. There may have been other instruments but somewhere in my energy field those drums are still vibrating. The voices too, indelible. So we listened and we danced and we attempted to sing along. We gazed into the fire and we wondered into the pitch black beyond the camp and our mouths gapped unreservedly at the starry thicket over head. Well after midnight, I retired to my toasty bed. It was a good and complete day.

http://www.yallatours.com/morocco/

Camel Riding and Other Fun in the Sahara Dunes of Morocco

Baby camel in the Sahara Desert of Morocco.

Baby camel in the Sahara Desert of Morocco.
He’s smiling.

My favorite camel story is from a few years ago, while I was escorting a group of travel agents in Morocco. It was a group of twenty or so very experienced agents, mostly women. I have escorted quite a few fam trips in my 15 years with Ya’lla Tours and this was a particularly happy and relaxed group of intrepid professionals. Ronen (Ya’lla owner) was traveling with us for the whole trip, rather than arriving on the tail end, as usual. That took a lot of pressure off. He lives to schmooze. Me, not so much.

After quick visits to Meknes and Rabat and two days in Fez, we drove south over the Atlas Mountains and on to Merzouga at the edge of the Sahara desert. From Merzouga, we rode camels into the Erg Chebi, a vast area of wind-blown dunes, to our Berber camp. This part of the trip was the highlight for most of us and the mood in the bus was raucous and giddy as we pulled up to the herd of camels waiting placidly, mostly, for their next assignment. While the bus maneuvered into a parked position, most of the group was pressed to the camel-facing window, cooing and exclaiming. The camels sat on the sand facing back, unimpressed. Still in the bus, random group members called dibs on specific camels to whom they felt a personal connection, “The one with the red harness is mine!” “I want that one over there!” This became a trend until one of the women imagined out loud what was being said on the other side of the window, “The skinny one is mine!”  “I don’t want the one in the red t-shirt!”  “These people need to lay off the snacks.” Hilarity ensued.

Finally out of the bus, we paired off with our mounts. One camel had been complaining loudly since we drove up. I’ve never, before or since, heard a camel make such a protracted and adamant statement. He was mine. I don’t know what the fuss was about but he calmed down once we got moving. Tracy (Ya’lla operations manager) also met a memorable grumbler with a group she escorted in Morocco. They called him Chewbacca. Maybe Chewie and my camel were one in the same.

We didn’t ride far, just up and over a couple of dunes. We stopped and toasted the sunset with champagne and then carried on over a couple more dunes to our camp. From bus to camp, it was probably less than an hour. That was enough. Riding up and down sand dunes on the back of a camel is strenuous. On flat ground, it’s much easier. (If you’re considering a camel trek of more than a few hours in the Sahara, I recommend some months of Pilates beforehand for core strength and regular use of that machine at the gym that works the inner and outer thigh, the good-girl/bad-girl machine. You’ll especially need strong inner thighs so concentrate on the good-girl moves.)

The next morning, camels were available to anyone who wanted to ride out to watch the sunrise. I think most people chose to walk. I know I did. Walking up and down 300 ft sand dunes under your own power is no piece of cake either, but definitely worth the effort. You crawl more than walk on the way up and slide-sink/somersault-roll on the way down. Engage abs and quads, mind the knees.

Young “guides” from a nearby village gathered at our camp before dawn to offer their services. I followed a tweenaged boy into the cold, dark morning. We put 3 or 4 dunes behind us and at the top of number 5 he motioned for me to sit and stay and then disappeared. A few minutes later he reappeared with an arm load of a dry reedy plant that made a fine little fire to warm our hands. Now dawn was breaking and a great range of red sand mountains emerged around us.

Do you think I can find photos of any of this? No. I’m going to keep searching. In the meantime, here are a few from different fam trips to Morocco. They are illustrative even though the quality is not great. Is it better to have a post with medium quality pictures than with no pictures at all? I just don’t know.

Check out our Morocco tours here www.yallatours.com/morocco.

Israel Border Crossing, the Outs and Ins

We get a lot of questions about Israel border crossing. It’s very common to combine Israel and Jordan as travel destinations and somewhat common to combine Israel and Egypt. Continue reading

Royal Opera House Muscat

The Royal Opera House in Muscat has just begun a new season. We haven’t been too involved in pushing the arts, other than a few big opera productions at Masada, but we have been inspired by Oman, and in particular, by their stunning opera house. The building is so spectacular, Ronen had all our Oman programs changed to include a visit. Continue reading

It’s Sukkot!

Sukkot is a joyful 7-day Jewish holiday, beginning 5 days after Yom Kippur, in October or September. It’s an annual commemoration of the period immediately after the Exodus from Egypt as well as a harvest festival. In Hebrew, sukkot means “booths” and refers to the temporary shelters, sukkah, that the Israelites built during their 40 years in the desert with Moses. Continue reading

My heart is always with Cuba

Image

I didn’t know I would be having a love affair with Cuba, back in 2003,  when I first visited.  In fact, I didn’t know what to expect.  I had been to most of the Caribbean islands, but until Ya’lla Tours became a Travel Service Provider to Cuba, I had not given the island much thought. To me, it was just another rock in the sea, though a big one: Cuba is the seventh largest inhabited island in the world. Continue reading

Try Turkish Coffee This Weekend, it’s Easy

On one of my trips to Turkey, I purchased a lovely hand-painted coffee set. It traveled safely with me across Turkey and all the way home to Portland. A week or so after returning home was Thanksgiving. With a houseful of family and friends grazing and watching football, I decided it was a good time to show off my souvenirs. The coffee set was still in its packing on a high shelf in my kitchen. As I brought it down, the bottom of the package gave way and six saucers and six cups fell onto the counter and floor. CRRAASSH. NNNNOOOO!!!  Continue reading

The Best Paladares in Cuba

A paladar is a privately owned and operated restaurant in Cuba. Although they have been around since the 1990s (and illegally so before that), paladares are having a bit of a surge right now. That’s an understatement, really, they’re going gangbusters, popping up all over the place in Havana and Trinidad and even in some smaller cities, like Cienfuegos. Since new economic reforms introduced in late 2010, the paladares have a lot more freedom around what they can serve and the number of diners they can seat. Continue reading

Hello winners, are you there?

IMG_2561

We have 2 winners of our Wednesday drawing. Last week’s drawing was done this week because this blogger was on holiday in the wilds of SE Portland Oregon, and had technical difficulties accessing the blog and list of followers. Really, I gave it a good try.

Anyway, we keep our promises, so we doubled up this week. Yesterday, we picked the names of 2 blog followers by a high tech drawing process involving scraps of paper and a giant coffee mug. Both winners were notified yesterday but have yet to pick up their prizes – $10 Starbucks gift cards. I won’t reveal their names in full here without their permission, because that’s not cool. But M Cohen and someone from Bordine’s Leisure Travel, if you’re out there, you have $10 worth of Starbucks stuff sitting in your inbox, or maybe it went to the Spam folder… I do hope you find it and enjoy.

Cheers to all. Tomorrow is Friday!