Apollo Was Here: Delos & Delphi

In the throes of labor, the Titaness Leto searched desperately for a place to bear Apollo and Artemis. Zeus was the father of the twins and his (justifiably) vengeful wife Hera had vowed to curse any piece of land that allowed Leto to give birth. As an extra bit of enforcement, Hera sent the serpent/dragon Python in pursuit of Leto. (Where was Zeus during all of this? That’s what I’d like to know. Apparently he sent the North Wind to help her along, but really, that seems like a pretty feeble gesture under the circumstances.) Continue reading

Agios Sostis Beach, Mykonos, Greece

Aigios Sostis Beach, Mykonos

Aigios Sostis Beach, Mykonos

Mykonos has a well-earned reputation as the party island of Greece. Most of the tourist development on the island is on the south side, where the scene is dense with raucous revelers in the abundant bars and restaurants, in the streets, and on the beaches.
If a tranquil island experience is the goal, there are far better options than Mykonos.
On the other hand, those travelers looking to kick up their heels for a time and then recover in relative peace, we direct to the north side of the island.

About 15 minutes by car from teeming Mykonos Town, Agios Sostis Beach (St. Sostis)is a lovely, calm stretch of pristine nature. Development in the area is sparse and the only tourist facility is a rustic taverna. The mostly sandy beach is on a small cove on the west side of the large Panormos Bay. It’s very clean and gives way to remarkably clear waters. The beach is clothing-optional, with nudists tending to gather at one end.

There is no bus service to this remote beach, which helps discourage the crowds.
Still, Agios Sostis Beach can get busy in high season. It is other peace-seeking visitors who are drawn here though; and it never gets anywhere near as crowded as south coast beaches.

There are no umbrellas or sunbeds on this beach and no natural shade. Visitors should bring umbrellas and towels, as well as snacks and plenty of water. There may be a wandering vendor or two offering drinks and simple food but don’t count on it.
Kiki’s taverna serves delicious food but the wait for a table is notoriously long, often more than an hour. The Kiki’s hopeful should get a spot in line well before they open for lunch.

Now for the downside – the northern shore of Mykonos takes the brunt of the Meltemi wind, which blows across the Aegean Sea with variable velocity May-October, but especially July-August. A particularly windy day on Mykonos is perhaps not the best day for Agios Sostis Beach.

 

Hotel Favs – Petasos Beach Resort & Spa, Mykonos, Greece

Le Club Restaurant, Petasos Beach Resort & Spa, Mykonos

Le Club Restaurant, Petasos Beach Resort & Spa, Mykonos

Located about 5km from Mykonos Town and its famous nightlife, Petasos Beach Resort & Spa is an oasis of relative peace and quiet. With a bus stop right outside the front door, the bustle of town is an easy 10-15 minutes away. In season, the bus runs every 30 minutes and tickets are sold at the hotel desk, for 1.80 euros.

The hotel is positioned at the end of a rocky outcropping, with its own small private beach. The large public beach Platys Gialos is right next door and Psarou beach is a five-minute walk away. Other beaches can be reached by water taxis from Gialos. (American travelers should know that, in terms of pillowy sand, most Mediterranean/Aegean beaches do not compare with those of Hawaii, Mexico and the Caribbean. Don’t go to Greece for the beaches; go to Greece for culture, both past and present, great food and rugged natural beauty, all with a side of beach.)

Pristine, multi-level patios around the pool have gorgeous views of the little bay and sea beyond. Guest rooms are spacious and some deluxe rooms and suites have their own pool. The two on-site restaurants are excellent and plenty of dining options are within an easy walk. Behind all the crisp beauty and comfort of Petasos Beach is an outstanding staff – sincerely friendly and eager to serve. We get nothing but raves from Ya’lla travelers about this hotel.

private pool suite

private pool suite

Classic Room

Classic Room

All photos courtesy of Petasos Beach Resort & Spa

Greek Island Cruise Diary – Day 1

We boarded our Greek Island cruise at around 10am at Athens’ Piraeus port. We’re traveling on a four-day cruise on the Louis Cruise Lines on the Olympia ship. Ports of call will be Mykonos, Kusadasi (Turkey), Patmos, Rhodes, Crete and Santorini. Continue reading