VIKOS GORGE, GREECE

Vikos Gorge, Epirus, Greece

Vikos Gorge, Epirus, Greece

Way off the beaten path, isolated by the Pindus Mountains, the Epirus region of northwestern Greece is one of the least populated places in Europe. Ecosystems of exceptional diversity include thick old-growth forests, pure lakes and rivers and a number of endangered species, some found nowhere else.

The Vikos Gorge cuts a deep swath (by some account’s the world’s deepest) through this pristine wilderness, offering magnificent views and, for the fit and experienced, exhilarating hiking. The gorge stretches about 12 miles between the villages of Monodendri and Vikos.

Monodendri village, Epirus, Greece

Monodendri village, Epirus, Greece

Forty-five sleepy stone villages, with their cobbled streets and arched-stone bridges, known collectively as the Zagori, tuck into the surrounding slopes and valleys. Cobbled roads between the villages make for easy-moderate hiking.

Kipoi village, Epirus, Greece

Kipoi village, Epirus, Greece

one of many stone bridges in the Zagori

one of many stone bridges in the Zagori

The nearest major town is Ioannina, about 18 miles away. From Ioannina, 6-8 hours is plenty of time to gaze upon the natural splendor of the Vikos gorge and explore a few villages of the Zagori.

To hike the gorge, good physical condition and some experience is crucial. Descent and ascent are very steep and climbing up and over large rocks may be necessary on the gorge floor.

 

Greece Must See – Mycenae

Lion Gate, Mycenae, Greece

Lions Gate, Mycenae, Greece

Located about 60 miles southwest of Athens on the northeastern Peloponnese, in the region of Argolis, Mycenae was a major center of power in the eastern Mediterranean from about 1600-1100BCE. The Mycenaeans were culturally influential and the period is the source of a lot of Greek legend. Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey sprang from this time.

In the Iliad, Agamemnon, the legendary king of Mycenae, led the Greek forces in the Trojan War. War sparked when Helen (of Troy) ran off with Paris, prince of Troy. Helen was the wife of Menelaus, King of Sparta and Agamemnon’s brother. It’s a good story, really. Whether any of the bones of the story are factual is debatable but there’s no question that it was inspired by some complex power struggles, think Game of Thrones.
(See my brief retelling of the Iliad here and here.)

Excavations at Mycenae represent different periods, ranging from 17th-century BCE shaft tombs to the 14th– century cyclopean walls (so called because the stones are so large the Cyclops must have built them) and the 13th-century Lions Gate. A fair bit of walking over very uneven ground is required to see the site. Good, sturdy shoes are a must, and a big bottle of water.

Myceanae is an easy daytrip from Athens and also a regular feature on longer bus tours. These Ya’lla tours include visits to Mycenae: Scholar’s Classical, Scirocco, Aegean Highlights, Ultimate Greece, Aeolos.

NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 80

Every year in late May, thousands of nocturnal Jersey Tiger moths descend on a small valley on a large island in the Aegean Sea. The moths are drawn to Petaloudes (Butterfly Valley) by the post-rainy season moisture and the scent of the continent’s only Oriental Sweetgum Forest. The number of moths and how long they stay does vary. Generally they’re there through the Summer. Butterfly Valley is located on the island of Rhodes, about 16 miles from Rhodes Town. Rhodes is a port of call on most Aegean cruises.

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Poetry Corner: Sappho – EVENING & MOONLIGHT

The ancient Greek poet Sappho was born on the island of Lesbos around 620 BCE, probably to an aristocratic family. She was highly admired in antiquity and the library at Alexandria held nine volumes of her work. Only a fraction of her total body of work remains today, mostly in fragments.

EVENING
Children astray to their mothers, and goats to the herd,
Sheep to the shepherd, through twilight the wings of the bird,
All things that morning has scattered with fingers of gold,
All things thou bringest, O Evening! at last to the fold.

MOONLIGHT
The stars around the fair moon fade
Against the night,
When gazing full she fills the glade
And spreads the seas with silvery light.

A Halcyon Solstice

Kingfisher, Allen W. Seaby, 1929

Kingfisher, Allen W. Seaby, 1929

Alcyone, daughter of the keeper of the Wind, was married to Ceyx, son of the morning star. They were very much in love and totally devoted to each other, yet Alcyone’s love was powerless to relieve the suffering of her husband over the loss of his brother.

Even from the depths of despair, Ceyx knew it was time to get on with his life and he thought his best hope was a consultation with the oracle of Apollo at Claros. This required a sea journey, which, being daughter of the Wind, Alcyone knew to be perilous, especially in Winter, which it was. She pleaded with her husband not to go to no avail. Continue reading

Delphi: Center of the World

Delphi, Greece

Delphi, Greece

Delphi is a 2.5 – 3 hour drive northwest of Athens on the slopes of Mt.Parnassus, a really stunning spot. The ancient Greeks believed it to be the center of the world. According to legend, Apollo killed the Python that guarded the Omphalos, or navel of the earth, and thereafter, the site was dedicated to the god. The Delphic Oracle was a priestess known as the Pythia, who channeled the words of Apollo for seekers of wisdom from near and far. Delphi was also known for the Pythian Games, similar to the original Olympic Games.

The extensive remains are mostly from the 6th-century BCE and are scattered on several terraced levels right down the side of the mountain. The small museum holds artifacts found at the site. The modern town of Delphi is right there, with lots of hotels, restaurants and shops. Staying a night instead of doing the roundtrip to Athens in one day is a good option. There are motor coach tours either way.

These Ya’lla tours to Greece include visits to Delphi: Scholar’s Classical, Scirocco, Aegean Highlights, Ultimate Greece, and Aeolos.

NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 70

The Temple of Hephaestus is located within the area of the agora, the ancient cultural and political center of the city that is today the capital of our mystery country. Hephaestus was the god of fire, metal working, the art of sculpture and other crafts. Archaeological evidence places a number of blacksmith and pottery workshops in the near vicinity of his temple. The temple was built in the mid-5th-century BCE, a golden age of social and cultural innovation and productivity, and today is one of the most complete Doric temples standing anywhere.

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NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 60

Located in the central part of our mystery country, Lake Plastiras is an artificial lake formed by the damning of the Tavropos River in 1960. The lake, also known as Tavropos Reservoir, attracts visitors looking for a break from congested cities and crowded tourist sites. Charming villages surround the lake, each with its own particular vantage on beautiful, serene nature. Outdoor recreating is a big draw, with canoeing, kayaking, hiking, mountain-biking and horseback riding just a few of the activities available at the lake. The spectacular monasteries of Meteora make an easy day-trip from Plastiras and the capital city is about a 4-hour drive to the south. 

 

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