Troy

archaeological site of Troy, Turkey

archaeological site of Troy, Turkey

The archaeological site of Troy is located in western Turkey near the convergence of the Aegean Sea and the Dardanelles (ancient Hellespont), the strait that connects the Aegean to the Bosphorus and the Black Sea, a strategic location valuable to whomever controls it.

Excavations have revealed 9 main layers of settlement going back 5 thousand years. The Troy immortalized by Homer in the Iliad, which tells the story of the final months of a 10 year siege of Troy by a coalition of Greek states, has been placed in layer VIIa, dated to around 1250 BCE. Scholars generally agree that the Iliad is a fictionalized, mythologized account of an actual conflict, but that the war was most likely over control of the Hellespont and trade access to the Black Sea, rather than the abduction of Helen, the queen of Sparta, as Homer tells it.

Factual or not, the Iliad is full of very human characters and dramatic force that are embedded in the foundation of Western culture and still compelling 3000 years later. Troy is one of the most visited archaeological sites in the world, not because of a 3000 year old dispute over territory, but because of the mythical proportions of the characters and events placed there by Homer.

So, that’s what we’re looking at in this post and the previous post, the story of Troy, the people (both mortal and immortal) and relationships that continue to give it life even now, when it physically bears little resemblance to its actual or imaginary self.

When we left off in the last post, the assembled Greek warriors had just set sail for Troy, having purchased good winds with the life of Agamemnon’s daughter Iphigenia. They’re headed to get Helen, wife of Menelaus, king of Sparta, back from Paris, prince of Troy, who took her.

Paris was exceptionally good-looking but not particularly courageous. What made him think he could get away with stealing the wife of a king? Aphrodite, goddess of love, that’s what, or who. I don’t mean in a metaphorical “love will find a way” sense but in a literal sense, at least as literal as it gets in the realm of myth and legend. Here’s the story: Eris, the goddess of discord, was bitter because she was not invited to the wedding party of the hero Peleus and the sea-nymph Thetis. Eris was a troublemaker by nature. She took her revenge by tossing a golden apple into the party inscribed with the words “for the fairest.” The apple was instantly claimed by three goddesses – Hera, Athena and Aphrodite, all very beautiful and vain. None was willing to defer to another, so they took the case to Zeus. Zeus was far too smart to get involved, especially considering one of the goddesses was his wife Hera, so he appointed the unsuspecting mortal Paris as judge. The three goddesses appeared before Paris in a field, where he was tending sheep, and lobbied hard for his vote. Hera promised to make him the king of Europe and Asia. Athena offered to make him a great warrior. Aphrodite vowed to give him the love of the world’s most beautiful woman, Helen of Sparta. You know how that contest ended. Aphrodite was declared the fairest and the fate of Troy was sealed then and there. Not only was Paris about to bring the enmity of Greece down on his city, but the wrath of two goddesses as well. Troy was doomed. But it wouldn’t be a quick and merciful end.

The siege of Troy lasted 10 years. Paris fought for his city but his brother Hector was by far the nobler warrior and man. Considering all the trouble Paris had caused, you can’t blame Hector for being hard on him, which he was, in a brotherly way. Mostly, Hector was busy trying to save the city and his family. Most of Troy called for the return of Helen to Menalaus. Unfortunately, the big softy King Priam supported his son’s desire to keep Helen and treated her as a daughter.

Meanwhile, in the Greek camp Agamemnon and the great warrior Achilles squabbled over Briseis, the queen of a Trojan ally captured in battle, and endanged their cause in the process. Briseis belonged to Achilles and Agamemnon took her, so Achilles refused to fight. He was the Greek’s best warrior and in his absence they lost a lot of ground. After his friend Patroclus was killed by Hector, Achilles returned to the battlefield in a fit of grief, mowing down Trojan soldiers until the river ran red with blood. Eventually he met Hector and killed him.

That’s pretty much the end of the Iliad but from other sources we learn about the Wooden Horse and the sack of Troy. Odysseus, the wily King of Ithaca, devised the plan to hide their best fighters inside a giant wooden horse, leave it at the gates of Troy and sail away. The Trojans fell for this and brought the horse inside. After dark, the hidden Greeks came out of the horse and opened the gates to the entire Greek army, which hadn’t sailed away very far. That was the end of Troy.

Paris and Hector had been killed on the battle field, along with many other Trojans and allies of Troy, and most of those who survived the siege died in the sack of the city, including King Priam. Agamemnon survived the war and returned to Mycenae only to be killed by his wife Clytemnestra, who hated him for sacrificing their daughter Iphigenia. More about that in my previous post. (That family’s tragedy goes on and on.) Menelaus and Helen returned to Sparta.

ruins at Troy, Turkey

ruins at Troy, Turkey

ruins at Troy, Turkey

ruins at Troy, Turkey

ruins at Troy, Turkey

ruins at Troy, Turkey

To visit Troy, spend the night in Canakkale, about a 30 minute drive away. Many people find the site disappointing. It does take some imagination, and a good guide, to connect with the history of the place but I wouldn’t miss it, especially if you’re a nerd for the Classics.

Click to see tours that include Troy on our web site.

Patmos & Revelation

Patmos is a Greek island off the western coast of Turkey. It’s especially important for Christians as the place where the Book of Revelation was written. The author refers to himself as John and there are varying opinions as to whether he and the author of the Gospel of John (the “beloved disciple” of Jesus) were one in the same.

In any case, John of Patmos  was an exile or refugee on the island during the Christian persecutions by the Roman emperor Domitian near the end of 1st century. If he was the disciple of Jesus, he would have been in his 90s. The story goes that John took shelter from the heat of the day in a cave and there encountered Jesus in the form of an angel, who dictated a message to each of seven Christian communities in Asia Minor (western Turkey). Then John was transported to heaven and the throne of God, where he received an apocalyptic message that has deeply affected Western culture, religious and secular.

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Whether read as prophecy or allegory, the imagery is vivid and terrifying. John is shown the radiant throne of God encircled by a rainbow and emitting thunder and lightning. Jesus stands before the throne in the form of a slaughtered lamb and he shows John the 4 Horsemen of the Apocalypse. Then John sees a sign in heaven – a pregnant woman clothed in the sun and a tremendous red dragon waiting to take her child. As soon as the child is born, he is taken to heaven and his mother escapes to the forest. The enraged dragon is thrown out of heaven to earth, where he calls upon 2 beasts to assist him in a battle against heaven. In heaven, 7 angels pour 7 bowls full of God’s wrath onto the earth to torment the faithless there. Jesus leads an army of angels against the dragon and his angels and the ungodly humans. The forces of heaven prevail and vultures devour all the ungodly dead. The dragon is thrown into Hell. All the dead rise to be judged by Jesus, who throws the evil-doers into Hell and welcomes the good to eternity in Heaven. That’s the short version. Until recently, I had never read the full text. Actually, I still haven’t read it. I listened to a mesmerizing audio recording by Max McLean.

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Getting to Patmos is not easy. For groups, we usually charter a private boat from Kusadasi, Turkey, but that’s expensive for couples and small parties. Most Aegean cruises include a port stop at Patmos, see the cruise tours on our website. Ferries from Piraeus take 7-8 hours. It may be possible to fly from Athens to Samos and ferry to Patmos from there.

Farewell 2013, Ya’lla 2014!

Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

2013 was an eventful year at Ya’lla Tours USA.

To begin with, it was our 20th anniversary. In 1993 Ronen Paldi, Israeli native, landed in Portland, Oregon and opened Ya’lla Tours USA. He based the company philosophy and operations on the practical experience he gained as a tour guide for over 10 years in Israel and Egypt, on the ground day-to-day with travelers.

Our really big news in 2013 was the introduction of not 1 but 4 new countries to our repertoire – the UAE, Oman, Qatar and Bahrain. Our tag line “specialists to the exotic Mediterranean” no longer covers it. These were our first new destinations in over 10 years. Clients often nudged us to cover Italy, Spain and France because they combine nicely with our existing countries (Israel, Jordan, Egypt, Morocco, Greece,Turkey). However, there are already many well-established, quality tour operators to Italy, Spain and France and the world really doesn’t need another one. Ronen’s excellent business sense told him that there was not room in that market for us and chose to stay focused on our product line in the Middle East/Eastern Mediterranean (plus Cuba, which is another thing altogether). The Arabian Peninsula, on the other hand, is a relatively untapped market for American travelers and it fits well culturally and geographically with our other countries, while also bringing something new.

Perhaps what sealed the deal was that our dear Jordanian friends Gaby and Reem operate a travel services company in Dubai. They were our ground operator in Jordan back in the 1990s. So, although the destinations are new, we have friends we trust advising us and taking care of our clients. They know us, how we operate, what we expect and we know they will deliver. I think it was meant to be. In addition to Gaby and Reem, the director of our office in Egypt is very familiar with the area, having visited there many times. His input was essential as we began to select hotels and compose itineraries.

Ronen and Tania went to the Arabian Peninsula for the first time in June. When they returned we had a meeting in Portland with all of our sales reps from around the country, something we hadn’t done in three years. It was fun to have everyone in the same room together and exciting to be learning about new places.

In early December Ronen returned to the Arabian Peninsula with our entire sales team, Teri McCulloh, our general manager, our videographer and 18 travel agency owners and managers. Some of us stayed behind to hold down the fort… My colleagues went to the Arabian Peninsula and all they brought me was 1,000+ pictures… (and that’s enough!)

Speaking of colleagues, we got a new one, just as the year was drawing to a close – Michael Walsh, our new sales manager in California and Colorado. Welcome Michael!

Finally, my 2013 babies, our pretty new web site and this blog, both of which will benefit from those 1,000+ photos mentioned above.

In 2014 we’ll continue to deepen our knowledge of the Arabian Peninsula; Egypt, Greece, Israel, Jordan, Morocco, Turkey and Cuba too, and share what we know with you. Thanks for reading.

We wish you a healthy, peaceful and prosperous 2014.

Who’s a Pretty Birdie? The Amorous Parrot of Tusan

view from Tusan Hotel, Canakkale, Turkey

view from Tusan Hotel, Canakkale, Turkey

About 9 miles outside of Canakkale Turkey, nestled in a pine forest overlooking the Dardanelles Strait, is the Tusan Hotel. For accommodations, it’s nothing fancy, but it’s clean and comfortable with a homey charm. The hotel’s best asset is its position.
The buildings are surrounded by pine trees spaced perfectly to let in plenty of dappled light and nicely framed views of the water while still providing a sense of woodsy shelter. We use the hotel in our Bronze category.

I stayed there a few years ago while escorting a group of travel agents around Turkey. It’s close to Troy, which we visited the following day. After dinner, I played a few games of backgammon with our driver in the sitting room off the lobby. I was the only woman among 5 or 6 men, gathered to watch and comment on the game. After about an hour, I said goodnight and headed off to my room.

In the lobby of the Tusan is a beautiful gray parrot. I stopped to admire him and tell him what a pretty bird he was. He came right over to me and I stuck my finger through the bars of the cage to give him a scratch. To my delight he perched on my finger. Then, to my horror, he began to have his way with my finger, vigorously. ( I won’t use the most descriptive word for what he was doing, as this is meant to be a professional blog, but it rhymes with jump…) I couldn’t get away! People were walking through the lobby and there I stood, the captive of an obscene bird. It felt like a public shaming. I guess I stood like that for five minutes, although it seemed like an eternity, when one of the men who had been watching the backgammon game came to my rescue. He worked at the hotel and was familiar with this bird and his tricks. He lured him off me with some treat that was even more delectable than my finger. I suggested they put a sign on the cage warning fools like me to keep fingers outside.

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Yes, we’re talking about you.

To see our Turkey tours, visit http://www.yallatours.com/turkey/.

Ya’lla Tours Hearts Travel Agents

Ya’lla Tours is one of those rare tour operators that does not solicit business from the public and that does not chase down your clients directly after you make a booking with us.

I cannot count how many time that I have sat in an office where the lament of the  travel agent and owner is that this individual (or group) booked and then XYZ Company came along and directly took the next booking from the individual or group. I also cannot count the number of times that that same agent and owner will book XYZ Company again.

Why?

The reasons vary: XYZ Company is preferred; XYZ Company is what this client wants; XYZ Company is less expensive than the others.

Another client is gone to XYZ Company.  For good.

Ya’lla Tours invests a lot in travel agents.  Every penny of the commission paid to you is worth it, because you deliver a better qualified client to us and we form a good relationship with you. We do not have a booking engine on our extensive website purposely, because we do not want the public to be on the site and booking things that many do not even understand.  Ya’lla Tours has done 113 agent educational FAM trips over the 20 years in business, and at the end of each trip, Ronen Paldi, President of Ya’lla Tours, will fly to Israel, to Turkey, to Morocco or Greece, to wherever and hold a day-long seminar on how to sell and market what you have just experienced with us, and why you should use Ya’lla Tours.

Ya’lla Tours does love (heart) travel agents.  We have proven it year after year, and you know what, we want and will ask for your support in turn.  Stop giving away your valuable clients to companies that promise the love but then jilt you in the end.  Travel agents, if you have preferred operators taking bookings directly or taking your clients, let your boss know and let your consortia know; that way we all stay in business and make some money.

Guest blogger Rich Davis, Ya'lla Tours USA Sales Manager, Midwest Region

Guest blogger Rich Davis, Ya’lla Tours USA Sales Manager, Midwest Region

Try Turkish Coffee This Weekend, it’s Easy

On one of my trips to Turkey, I purchased a lovely hand-painted coffee set. It traveled safely with me across Turkey and all the way home to Portland. A week or so after returning home was Thanksgiving. With a houseful of family and friends grazing and watching football, I decided it was a good time to show off my souvenirs. The coffee set was still in its packing on a high shelf in my kitchen. As I brought it down, the bottom of the package gave way and six saucers and six cups fell onto the counter and floor. CRRAASSH. NNNNOOOO!!!  Continue reading

Istanbul Highlights #2

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul

the Grand Bazaar – If you’re a serious shopper, you need a full day or two here and a guide or a map and a compass. For most of us, a few hours is more than enough. One of the oldest and largest traditional covered markets, there are more than 4,000 shops on over 60 streets and they are not laid out on a grid, much. As long as you have an ultimate exit plan and plenty of time, it’s a wondrous place to get lost in. Just about everything you can think of is for sale here, but leather, gold and silver jewelry, ceramics, textiles and carpets are good buys in Turkey. Shops selling similar items are grouped together. Merchants in the Grand Bazaar can be quite aggressive. If you’re shopping for a big ticket item, you should go in with some knowledge about quality, firm resolve and a sense of humor. Continue reading

Istanbul Not Constantinople

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We really wish the Turkish Tourist Office would market their country more aggressively in the United States. It seems few Americans know what it has to offer.

Although it’s a Muslim country and mostly in Asia (a small part of the country is in Europe), modern Turkey really has much more in common with Europe than with its other neighbors. Continue reading