NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 79

The fresco pictured above is one of nearly 50 vivid biblical scenes that wrap the interior walls, domes and vaults of the Chora Museum (originally a church, then a mosque) in the largest city of our mystery country. The existing 11th-century structure was built on the remains of a 4th-century Byzantine church. When the original church was built, it was outside the city walls, hence the name Chora, which means “country” in ancient Greek. Most of the frescos and mosaics are from the 14th century. After the Ottoman conquest, the church was converted to a mosque and the figurative art, not allowed in Islam, was covered in plaster. Restoration of the mosaics and frescos began in the 1940s.

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NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 69

For ancient Greeks and Romans, Hieropolis, in the Anatolian southwest of our mystery country, was a luxury spa  destination. Visitors today probably know it best for the travertine-terrace pools, which inspired the modern name, Pamukkale or Cotton Castle in the local tongue. Formed by millions of years of mineral deposits from the thermal waters, the white terraces rise abruptly from the valley floor to over 500 feet high and can be seen from 10 miles away.

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It’s Fig Season in Turkey!

photo by Capucine Fachot-Charbonneau, The Istanbul Guide

photo by Capucine Fachot-Charbonneau, The Istanbul Guide

As you walk down almost any street in Istanbul, save for the main arteries, there’s a distinct perfume of late summer afternoons. The figs have arrived and so has their sweet, heady aroma. Though dried figs are available all year round in Istanbul, there’s nothing like biting into a fresh one, as its perfume hits the back of the throat, and the crunchy seeds heighten the pleasure derived from its sweet chewiness.

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Love Yogurt? Thank Turkey.

There is a Turkish saying, “Zemheride yoğurt isteyen, cebinde inek taşır” – “The one who wants yogurt in midwinter carries a cow in his pocket.” We’re lucky to be in the heart of summer, as our pockets aren’t big enough for cows. In fact, Istanbul natives know that yogurt is the ideal antidote to the city’s sweltering heat. With its powerful health properties and addictive taste, yogurt is a fermented friend to rely on: slurp down some cooling yogurt soup, dollop it on the side of bulgur pilav, drizzle it with garlic over crispy mantı, or sip it in the form of salty ayran.
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NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 59

Pamukkale is located in southwestern Anatolia, a 4 to 5-hour drive inland from coastal attractions such as Ephesus, Bodrum, Marmaris and Antalya. The closest major attraction is Aphrodisias, roughly halfway between the coast and Pamukkale (less than 2 hours driving). Pamukkale is known as the “Cotton Castle” because of its dramatic travertine terraces formed by hot-spring deposits of calcium carbonate. The Romans built the thriving spa town of Hieropolis here and besides the natural wonders there are some nice ruins to explore.

 

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Foto Friday Favs

Dhofar, Oman

Dhofar, Oman

Amra Castle, Jordan

Amra Castle, Jordan

camel races, Oman

camel races, Oman

Chora Museum, Istanbul, Turkey

Chora Museum, Istanbul, Turkey

Deira, Dubai

Deira, Dubai

Ya'lla group at Karnak Temple in Luxor, Egypt

Ya’lla group at Karnak Temple in Luxor, Egypt

El Aqabat in Egypt's Western Desert

El Aqabat in Egypt’s Western Desert

Fez medina, Morocco

Fez medina, Morocco

Ibn Tulun Mosque, Cairo, Egypt

Ibn Tulun Mosque, Cairo, Egypt

on the Nile in Egypt

on the Nile in Egypt

WOW Places – the theater at Pergamum, Turkey

The world’s steepest ancient theater appears to be sliding right off the acropolis of Pergamum. Don’t worry, it has been hanging on for 2,000 years. Imagine all the many thousands of performances staged right here, with the sweeping valley view as a backdrop. Just out of the picture, dazzling marble remains are scattered across the mountain top; and the Temple of Dionysus, the foundations of the great Alter of Zeus and the agora are terraced into the slope off to the side.

YIKES!

Pergamum was an important Greco-Roman city, home to 200,000 people at its peak. The 3rd largest library of antiquity was here and people from all across the Roman world came for health and wellness treatments at the Sanctuary of Asclepius. One of the Seven Churches of Revelation was in Pergamum and it’s a common stop on Christian pilgrimage tours of Turkey.

Pergamum is about 15 miles from the Aegean coast, 60 miles from Izmir, the closest airport, and 110 miles from Ephesus. The modern town on the site is Bergama.

Click to read more about Pergamum.

Sinan the Architect

Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

The great Ottoman architect Sinan had a long, illustrious career spanning most of the 16th century, the height of Ottoman power. His work pretty much set the tone for subsequent Ottoman architecture

Sinan’s parents were Christian Greeks and, as part of the system known as Devsirme, Sinan was taken as a young boy, converted to Islam and educated and trained to serve the empire. This system arose out of the practice of enslaving prisoners of war during the early years of the empire. By Sinan’s time, the system was meant as a way to balance power among the ruling classes by offering non-Turkic sons the opportunity to reach elevated positions.

Sinan was drafted into the elite Janissary corps of the sultan’s standing army.
There he served as a construction officer, working on bridges and fortifications.
In his extensive travels around the empire as a soldier he was exposed to many great buildings. He distinguished himself as a brilliant engineer and in 1538 was appointed by Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent as head royal architect. He served in that position until his death in 1588.

Sinan built over 360 buildings, including mosques, medersas (Koranic schools), mausoleums, hospitals, aqueducts, public baths, palaces and mansions. His mosque designs were influenced by the Hagia Sophia, with a hovering central dome and open, airy interiors. In his exteriors he used smaller domes and half-domes to draw the eye upwards to the central dome.

One of his first buildings was the Sehzade Mosque, built to mark the death of the sultan’s son.

Sehzade Mosque, Istanbul

Sehzade Mosque, Istanbul

Perhaps his best known building is the Suleymaniye Mosque, which commands a prominent spot overlooking the Bosphorus in Istanbul. Like many of Sinan’s mosques, Suleymaniye comprises a complex with schools, a hospital, baths, shops, a kitchen and stables, in addition to the mosque.

Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul

Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul

The Selimiye Mosque in Edirne was one of his late projects and is generally considered his masterpiece. It has some of the tallest minarets ever built and the dome equals that of Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia in diameter.

© Nexus7 - Selimiye Mosque Interior Photo

© Nexus7 – Selimiye Mosque Interior Photo

Sinan is buried in a modest tomb of his own design in a garden near the Suleymaniye Mosque.

Want to see some of Sinan’s work in person? Click here to see Turkey tours.