Jerash, Jordan

Roman theater, Jerash, Jordan

Roman theater, Jerash, Jordan

Gerasa (modern Jerash), 30 miles north of Amman, is the second most visited tourist site in Jordan, after Petra, and one of the world’s most extensive Roman sites outside of Italy.

There is evidence that the area has been inhabited since the Neolithic period but serious development began with the Hellenistic Greeks in the 3rd-century BCE. The city grew and prospered under Roman rule and was a member of the Decapolis, ten politically important city-states in the far eastern reaches of the empire. At its height, in the 2nd-century CE, 20,000 people lived in Gerasa.

Temple of Artemis, Jerash, Jordan

Temple of Artemis, Jerash, Jordan

The ancient remains sprawl across an elevated, rolling plain with the modern town and cultivated fields looking on from the surrounding slopes. Much has yet to be uncovered. Demonstrations of gladiator fights and chariot races take place in the hippodrome every day except Tuesday. For three weeks each summer (around late July-early August) the site hosts the Jerash Festival, an acclaimed arts festival with theater, music and dance performances staged among the ruins.

Oval Plaza, Jerash, Jordan

Oval Plaza, Jerash, Jordan

Click to see Jordan tours that include visits to Jerash.

NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 65

Arte Corte is a hair salon and museum of hairdressing founded by Gilberto Valladares, known as Papito, the most recognized hair stylist in our mystery country.

Papito’s cultural project brings together barbers, hairdressers, models, artists and historians to preserve the history of hairdressing in Cuba and also to improve conditions for residents of the neighborhood. The group operates a school of hairdressing free for youth of the area and a cooperative to help other businesses get a start, improve the facilities for senior citizens and beautify the neighborhood.

 

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It’s Fig Season in Turkey!

photo by Capucine Fachot-Charbonneau, The Istanbul Guide

photo by Capucine Fachot-Charbonneau, The Istanbul Guide

As you walk down almost any street in Istanbul, save for the main arteries, there’s a distinct perfume of late summer afternoons. The figs have arrived and so has their sweet, heady aroma. Though dried figs are available all year round in Istanbul, there’s nothing like biting into a fresh one, as its perfume hits the back of the throat, and the crunchy seeds heighten the pleasure derived from its sweet chewiness.

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NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 64

Known as the “Citadel,” the site pictured above is located on the highest of seven hills that make up Amman, the capital city of our mystery country. The area has been continuously inhabited at least since the Bronze Age and excavations have only scratched the surface. Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad remains have been uncovered to date, including the Roman Hercules Temple above, a water cistern and palace from the Umayyad period and a Byzantine church. The national archaeological museum is also located at the Citadel.

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Madaba, Jordan – City of Mosaics

The modern city of Madaba Jordan sits on top of multiple layers of previous inhabitation, going back some 4,000 years. Walking around town you can see the remains of buried structures poking up through the grass. Among Madaba’s excavated past (and probably the unexcavated as well) is a large collection of mosaic floors, walls and ceilings.

After being mostly abandoned for almost 1,000 years, Madaba began to be resettled in the 1880s by Arab Christians. The first mosaics were discovered as they mined the ancient rubble to build their new town. In 1896, the famous mosaic map of the holy land was found and excavation and preservation of Madaba’s mosaics has continued pretty steadily ever since.

St. George’s Church – This is where you’ll find the mosaic map that put Madaba on the map. A modern-era church stands atop the remains of a 6th-century Byzantine church, the floor of which contained this detailed depiction of the Mediterranean basin. The map was originally over 1,000 square feet but only about 1/4 remains.

the famous Madaba Map

the famous Madaba Map

detail of the famous Madaba Map

detail of the famous Madaba Map

Archaeological Park – This fine open-air museum encompasses the remains of several churches and houses including, of course, some very good mosaics.

Hippolytus Hall mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Hippolytus Hall mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Church of the Virgin mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Church of the Virgin mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Archaeological Museum – Here is a nice little collection of mosaics from Madaba and the vicinity, as well as other artefacts and cultural displays.

Church of St. John the Baptist – Climb the bell tower for sweeping views, then explore the maze of passages that burrow through the hill underneath the church.

Church of the Apostles – If you really can’t get enough mosaics, walk a bit away from the city center to the Church of the Apostles, which houses a beautiful, large mosaic floor.

Church of the Apostles mosaic, Madaba

Church of the Apostles mosaic, Madaba

Um er-Rasas – This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, although it seems utterly forgotten. Hidden in the expansive field of debris, you’ll find Roman, Byzantine and early Muslim ruins in early stages of excavation. The most spectacular discovery to date is the beautifully preserved mosaic floor of the Church of St. Stephen. The site is about 19 miles south of Madaba.


This photo of Um er-Rasas (Kastrom Mefa’a) is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Wadi Jadid – For a nice juxtaposition to the detailed, micro-artistry of Madaba’s mosaics, travel about 6 miles to the southwest to find a field of megalithic tombs from the 3rd millennium BCE. Most of the dolmens are tumbled down but there are enough standing to give a very satisfying sense of mystery and extreme ancientness.

dolmen at Wadi Jadid, Jordan

dolmen at Wadi Jadid, Jordan

Madaba is located along the famous King’s Highway, about 20 miles south of Amman.
It pairs nicely with visits to Mt. Nebo, Bethany Beyond the Jordan and the Dead Sea.

To see tours to Madaba click here.

NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 63

Qasr Al Sarab is a luxury desert resort near Abu Dhabi, the capital of our mystery country. Located in the world’s largest uninterrupted sand desert, the Rub’ Al Khali, the resort is an oasis base for exploring the surrounding dunes. Camel trekking, dune bashing, desert sailing (yes, desert sailing),  and fat-tire biking are just some of the activities available. Desert animals like oryx and gazelles freely wander the grounds and sometimes drink from the swimming pools.

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WOW Places – Mt. Nebo, Jordan

Mt. Nebo is traditionally believed to be the site from which Moses viewed the Promised Land of Canaan. After taking the 40-year route from Egypt he was stopped just short of his goal because he had disobeyed a command of God. He died shortly after and was buried in an unknown place nearby.

Looking west, as Moses did, the view from Mt. Nebo sweeps across Jericho and the Dead Sea to the Judean Hills, Bethlehem and Jerusalem and northward up the Jordan Valley.

Remains of a Byzantine church are incorporated into the modern church on site, which houses some very nice mosaics.

The serpentine cross sculpture at the edge of the summit is a dramatic, modern addition.

Mt. Nebo is about an hour drive south of Amman and combines well with visits to Madaba, Bethany Beyond the Jordan and the Dead Sea, all within a short drive.

Click to see tours to Mt. Nebo.