Beach holidays are not our specialty. For the most part, American travelers do not cross the Atlantic ocean to lie on a beach. However, many do work a couple of R&R days into otherwise busy cultural itineraries. In any case, while much of the US is still suffering the epic winter of 2015, we offer this brief, mental escape to gentler climes.
Abu Dhabi, UAE
Paradise Beach, Corfu, Greece
Gobekli Tepe is an archaeological site in southeastern Turkey, about 12km from the city of Sanliurfa. It’s somewhat off the standard tourist track and, frankly, a bit too close to Syria for comfort right now, but it’s such an extraordinary place, it’s worth pondering and perhaps adding to your list of places to visit in a more peaceful future.
When first discovered in 1994 by German archaeologist Klaus Schmidt, Gobekli Tepe rocked the archaeological world, and continues to do so.
The theory has (had?) been that agriculture set civilization in motion. Previously nomadic, hunter-gatherers settled in permanent communities in order to plant crops and domesticate animals. With the settled, communal lifestyle and reliable food sources came more leisure time and division of labor. Art and organized religion were byproducts of this new situation. Religion inspired monumental building, which required the kind of planning, specialized skill and large labor force only available in cities.
Gobekli Tepe turns that theory on its head. The earliest phases of this temple complex were built before the advent of agriculture and there is no sign of a permanent settlement nearby. All evidence suggests that it was exclusively a religious sanctuary. So, perhaps it was a spiritual impulse, rather than a physical need, that set humans on the path toward civilization.
The hilltop complex consists of several layers from different periods between the 10th and 8th millenniums BCE and is only partially excavated to date. (That’s 7,000 years before the Giza Pyramids!) In the oldest layer, pillars are embedded in walls encircling 2 central pillars. There are 20 such spaces. The pillars are limestone, ranging from 10-20 feet tall and weighing up to 16 tons. They were likely brought from a quarry more than a mile distant. The pillars are capped, like a T, perhaps representing the human form. Some of the pillars have human arms carved into them. Many have relief carvings of animals and painted symbols. They would have been carved with flint tools.
Particularly mysterious is the fact that sometime after 8,000 BCE, the whole sanctuary was purposefully buried. Many tons of ancient garbage – flint debris from tool making, and animal bones – was hauled up the hill and dumped into the temples to cover them completely.
Across the Muslim world, stories and anecdotes attributed to or about Nasreddin Hodja are as much a part of the collective consciousness as the Grimm’s Fairy Tales in Europe and North America.
Nasreddin was probably a real man who lived in Turkey in the 13th century. Some sources say he was born in Turkey, others that he moved there from Iran. In any case, it seems agreed that he lived and worked as a judge and teacher in Aksehir, near the city of Konya in central Turkey. He is known for his sly wit, appreciation of the absurd, optimism and genial nature. The honorific Hodja refers to a wise teacher. Continue reading
The Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, also known as Istanbul Modern, opened in 2004 and features the work of modern and contemporary Turkish artists, from the late 19th century to 21st century, as well as some non-Turkish artists.
Permanent and rotating exhibits display a range of media – photography, video, film, painting, sculpture and architecture. Continue reading
These 4th-century BCE rock-cut tombs hang above a charming and relatively quiet resort town on our mystery country’s “Riviera.” The town is surrounded by a Special Environmental Protection Area with pristine beaches, wetlands, lakes, rivers and nesting grounds for the endangered loggerhead turtle.
Can you name that country? What about the site?
See below for answers
I never tire of gazing upon Istanbul. I hope you agree.
This post will cover sites outside of Istanbul, which has its own must-see list here.
Click to see the list of our first 5 Must-See Sites in Turkey.
Nemrut Dagi
In the 1st century BCE, in what is today the Adiyaman province of south-central Turkey, the grandiose king of a tiny but rich kingdom built this mortuary temple complex and shrine to the gods 7,000 feet up in the eastern Taurus mountains. Antiochus I was the king and Commagene was the kingdom.
Visit late May-mid October, July-August if you want to be sure to avoid snow (pretty sure). Whenever you go, dress warmly. Travel from Adiyaman (about 2 hours), Kahta (about 1.5 hours), or the village of Karadut (about 30 minutes). Adiyaman and Kahta have more tourist infrastructure but if you can find a spot in Karadut, the proximity to the site is a big plus. The walk from the parking lot to the summit is about 1/3rd of a mile and gets pretty steep towards the end. Donkeys are available if needed. Most people visit at sunrise or sunset for the added drama. I would recommend either (or both!) If you have to choose, pick sunrise. Words can’t begin to convey the sight of the mountains and valleys materializing below and out to the horizon with the rising light, like the world is being created before your eyes. If you’re sharing the sunrise mountain with a crowd, hang around, most people leave within the hour.
What you’ll see in the light of day is a manmade conical peak, which is assumed to be the tomb of Antiochus I, although his body has not been located. Around this, colossal statues of Greek/Persian gods, Antiochus I, and a few lions and eagles. Most of the statues are seated and headless and range from about 25 to 30 feet tall. Heads loll about below, as if to escape the winds up top. Most likely they were toppled by earthquakes. They look pretty content there, gazing out at the view.
Cappadocia above ground: fairy chimneys & rockcut churches
Cappadocia is a region in central Turkey known for surreal sights, rich history and laid-back hospitality. Heavy volcanic activity followed by millions of years of erosion of the soft volcanic ash deposits and the harder layers of basaltic lava which covered them left over a hundred square miles of constantly surprising landscapes, sometimes comical, sometimes stunningly beautiful, often plain weird.
Cappadocia contains many different areas of fantastical rock formations, rock-cut churches and magnificent scenery. Two days is enough time to see the highlights but you could easily spend a week or more, especially if you want to hike or cycle and explore a bit off the beaten path. Here below is a brief overview of the main attractions.
The Goreme Open Air Museum is #1 for quantity and quality of churches in combination with scenic wonders. If you’re short on time, go here first.
About 4 miles to the southwest is the highest point in Cappadocia, the Uchisar Citadel, which is fun to explore, and the Pigeon Valley between Goreme and Uchisar is a beautiful, moderate hike.
About 3.5 miles north of Goreme is Avanos, a pretty town on the Kızılırmak River. Go there to buy the local pottery, which has been the town’s main industry for thousands of years.
Head east about 3 miles off the road to Avanos to find the Zelve Open Air Museum. Zelve consists of three adjoining valleys, where you’ll find cone formations and fairy chimneys, similar to Goreme, but nowhere near as many churches. Zelve gets far fewer tourists and what it lacks in frescos it makes up for in tranquility and open space. Very good trails and signage run through the valleys. When you’re exploring Zelve, think about the people who lived in the rock-cut dwellings right up until 1952.
The Ihlara Valley is a beautiful valley with rock-cut churches and monasteries but none as dramatic or well-preserved as those of Goreme. However, the scenery alone is worth a visit. It’s about 75 miles southwest of Goreme.
Cappadocia underground
There are 40 some underground cities in the Nesehir and Kayseri Provinces of Cappadocia in central Turkey. Some estimates put the number into the hundreds, while others count around 40. My guess is the discrepancy lies in how one defines “city.”
For our purposes, and those of the average tourist, 40 is more than enough. Most are not open to the public anyway, so we’ll focus on two that are: Derinkuyu and Kaymakli.
Extending down 200 feet with 8 levels, Derinkuyu is the deeper of the two cities but Kaymakli has more sprawl. They are connected to each other by tunnels, as are many of the other underground cities.
The cities possibly originated in Hittite times, around 1200 BCE, but were certainly, significantly expanded over the centuries, especially during Roman persecution of Christians in the 2nd and 3rd centuries and again in the 7th century, with the Arab invasions. Really, this part of the world was a superhighway for invaders, and the inhabitants had reason to hide on a regular basis. They got very good at it.
The underground cities were set up to shelter as many as 20,000 for long-term living and include sleeping quarters, kitchens, storehouses, churches, stables and even a winery. Ventilation shafts doubled as wells. Passageways allowed single file movement only, so intruders could be easily picked off one at a time. Giant boulders served as rolling doors that could only be removed from the inside. The doors had small holes in the center, just the size and height to spear the unwelcome in the gut, or thereabouts. For quick and easy access, most above-ground homes had openings to the underground right inside or very near the houses.
For most visitors, it’s enough to see one of the two cities. Each takes about an hour to tour. There’s very little signage, so a guide is highly recommended. Passageways are narrow but allow people of average height to get through with minimal stooping. Lighting is good, but if you’re claustrophobic, you might want to stick to the plentiful and thoroughly satisfying above-ground attractions of Cappadocia.
To get to Cappadocia, there are daily flights from Istanbul to Kayseri, in the heart of the region. Ankara is about a 3-hour drive. Istanbul is about a 10-hour drive.
Dervishes
Sufism is a mystical form of Islam and a Dervish is an ascetic follower of Sufism.
A type of Sema, a Sufi ritual, whirling is most associated with the Mevlevi order of Sufis founded in Konya, Turkey. The Mevlevi Dervishes are followers of the 13th-century mystical poet Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi-Rumi, better known in the West simply as Rumi. In Muslim countries, he’s more often referred to as Mevlana or Mevlevi, which means “our guide.”
Spinning is done to align mind, body and heart with the fundamental movement of the universe and all it contains. Everything is revolving, from subatomic particles to stars, planets and galaxies. Each element of the ceremony in some way symbolizes the submission of the ego to the oneness of God. The camelhair hat worn by the dervishes represents “the tombstone of the ego.” Dervishes remove their black cloak to begin the ritual, symbolizing spiritual rebirth. The white skirt worn while spinning is the ego’s shroud. Dervishes spin with arms wide, right hand open to heaven and left hand pointed down, forming a channel for God’s blessings to flow to the earth. There are four movements to the Sema, each involving submission of different aspects of self to God.
You can witness the Whirling Dervishes in Konya, where they originated, and in Istanbul. Konya is located in south-central Turkey and makes a good stop when traveling between Cappadocia and the coast. It’s perhaps the country’s most conservative city, very religious, and the site of the Mevlana Mausoleum. The Konya Cultural Center has weekly whirling ceremonies that are open to the public. The timing is changeable, so I won’t commit to anything specific here. In Istanbul, Dervishes are whirling daily at various locations. If you’re going, let us know and we’ll get details.
If you’re lucky enough to attend a whirling Sema, please remember that it is worship and should be treated with the proper respect.
Troy
The archaeological site of Troy is located in western Turkey near the convergence of the Aegean Sea and the Dardanelles (ancient Hellespont), the strait that connects the Aegean to the Bosphorus and the Black Sea, a strategic location valuable to whomever controls it.
Excavations have revealed 9 main layers of settlement going back 5 thousand years. The Troy immortalized by Homer in the Iliad, which tells the story of the final months of a 10 year siege of Troy by a coalition of Greek states, has been placed in layer VIIa, dated to around 1250 BCE. Scholars generally agree that the Iliad is a fictionalized, mythologized account of an actual conflict, but that the war was most likely over control of the Hellespont and trade access to the Black Sea, rather than the abduction of Helen, the queen of Sparta, as Homer tells it.
Factual or not, the Iliad is full of very human characters and dramatic force that are embedded in the foundation of Western culture and still compelling 3000 years later. Troy is one of the most visited archaeological sites in the world, not because of a 3000 year old dispute over territory, but because of the mythical proportions of the characters and events placed there by Homer.
To visit Troy, spend the night in Canakkale, about a 30 minute drive away. Many people find the site disappointing. It does take some imagination, and a good guide, to connect with the history of the place but I wouldn’t miss it, especially if you’re a nerd for the Classics.
Click to see Turkey tours on our web site.
This post will cover sites outside of Istanbul, which has its own must-see list here.
Curetes Way, a main boulevard of Ephesus, leading from the Temple of Hadrian to the Library of Celsus.
Ephesus
Even with only about 15% uncovered, Ephesus is one of the most extensively excavated Greco-Roman sites in the world.
The city was established by the Greeks in the 10th century BCE. By the Roman period, Ephesus was the 2nd largest city in the empire, with a population of 250,000. After Alexandria, it was the 2nd largest port in the eastern Mediterranean. The Temple of Artemis at Ephesus was one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world. Today, only the footprint of that temple remains but there’s so much more to see, you won’t notice it’s missing.
The most famous site at Ephesus is the Library of Celsus, which was the 3rd largest library in the ancient world, after Alexandria and Pergamum, but there is much, much more to see – marble roads, temples, a beautiful theater, an odeon, houses, mosaic floors, mosaic streets, public toilets, fountains, monumental gates…
Ephesus is an important pilgrimage site for Christians for several reasons. Paul the Evangelist spent time in the city. In fact, he was driven out by an angry mob of craftsmen who feared his preaching would negatively impact their sales of Artemis figurines. Paul wrote his Letter to the Ephesians to the church he established at Ephesus. The church at Ephesus is one of the 7 addressed in the Book of Revelation. The Apostle John is also believed to have spent time in Ephesus and his tomb and the remains of a basilica dedicated to him are there. On a piney slope a few miles from the archaeological site is the House of the Virgin Mary, believed to be where Mary spent the last years of her life.
Ephesus is located in western Anatolia (Asian Turkey) about 5 miles in from the Aegean coast. The town of Seljuk is about 2 miles away and the larger port town of Kusadasi is 12 miles away. The closest airport is 25 miles away at Izmir.
Trajaneum, Pergamum
Pergamum theater
Pergamum
Pergamum is an ancient Greco-Roman city in western Turkey, about 15 miles from the Aegean coast, 60 miles from Izmir, the closest airport, and 110 miles from Ephesus. The modern town on the site is Bergama.
From the 2nd century BCE through the 2nd century CE, Pergamum was among the most culturally influential cities in the Mediterranean region and reached a population of 200,000. The library at Pergamum was the largest after that of Alexandria and legend tells that, for a wedding present, Mark Antony gave Cleopatra the contents of the Pergamum library to insure the uncontested cultural prominence of Alexandria.
Most of Pergamum’s remains are on its acropolis, 1,000 feet above the valley floor.
The most prominent site atop the acropolis is the Temple of Trajan, which is gradually being reconstructed. Scant remains of the Temple of Athena and the Pergamum Library are also there, as well as a monumental gate and tombs of Hellenistic rulers. The theater spills down a steep slope and takes solid nerves to explore. The Temple of Dionysus, the foundations of the great Altar of Zeus and the agora are terraced into the slope.
In the valley, about 2 miles from the acropolis, the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the god of healing, was a very popular spa and health center in the 2nd century.
Less than a mile from the acropolis is the Red Basilica, built as a temple to the Egyptian gods Serapis and Isis and converted to a Christian church in the Byzantine era.
travertine terraces, Pamukkale
Pamukkale/Hieropolis
Pamukkale is located in southwestern Anatolia, a 4 to 5-hour drive inland from coastal attractions such as Ephesus, Bodrum, Marmaris and Antalya. The closest major attraction is Aphrodisias, roughly halfway between the coast and Pamukkale (less than 2 hours driving). Pamukkale is known as the “Cotton Castle” because of its dramatic travertine terraces formed by hot spring deposits of calcium carbonate. The Romans built the thriving spa town of Hieropolis here and besides the natural wonders there are some nice ruins to explore.
tetrapylon, Aphrodisias
Aphrodisias
The site of Aphrodisias in south-central Anatolia (Asian Turkey) was a major cult center of the regional version of Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and fertility. Around the 3rd century BCE, Aphrodite was merged with the local Great Mother goddess of fertility, worshipped here in the lush Dandalas River Valley for more than 5,000 years before the Greek pantheon settled in.
Ancient Aphrodisias was a bustling, cosmopolitan city and the remains are some of the best in Turkey. The tetrapylon (monumental gate) is the most photographed element, for good reason, but an extensive site unfolds from there. Don’t miss the exquisite little theater (odeon), the large stadium and, of course, the Temple of Aphrodite.
The famous Aphrodisian marble, from a quarry just down the road, inspired a prolific local arts scene and was exported across the Roman Empire. The excellent on-site museum is chock-a-block with marble sculpture, reliefs and inscriptions.
Visit Aphrodisias when traveling between Pamukkale and Ephesus or any point along the Aegean coast. The modern town is Geyre. It’s about 50 miles west of Pamukkale and roughly 100 miles from the coast.
Lycian Tombs, Dalyan
Dalyan Lycian Tombs
The small town of Dalyan is tucked into a bend of the Dalyan River on Turkey’s southwest coast, about 50 miles east of Marmaris and 35 miles west of Fethiye. The whole area, around 300 square miles, was established as a Special Environmental Protection Area beginning in the late 1980s. Although the protected status revolves largely around the endangered loggerhead turtle, which nests on a local beach, the area encompasses wetlands, fresh water lakes, rivers, a brackish water zone and rich agricultural lands.
Serene in the lap of splendid nature, Dalyan has only to raise its gaze the slightest degree to bring splendid culture and history into its fortunes. Probably the area’s most famous attraction, the 4th century BCE Lycian tombs hang over the river and town from the sheer face of a scrubby mountain. They are best viewed from the river and opportunities for boat rides are plentiful.
Click to see tours to Turkey.
Hagia Sophia, Istanbul
Hagia Sophia, Istanbul
The Hagia Sophia is a 6th-century Christian basilica, converted to a mosque by the Ottomans, now a museum. If the word awesome still had meaning, I would use it to describe the Hagia Sophia, temple of Holy Wisdom. It set the standard for Byzantine architecture, though it was 1,000 years before another cathedral surpassed its size. From the outside, it’s a red-orange mountain that seems to anchor the city to the Bosphorus shore. It’s not particularly beautiful but the air of greatness can’t be missed. On the inside, it’s vast, immense, vast and vast and filled with the light of heaven. The massive dome practically floats above the wide-open enormity below. Interior surfaces are decorated with frescos, mosaics, calligraphy and marble.
Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), Istanbul
The Sultanahmet Mosque is just down the way from Hagia Sophia. Together they are like bookends to the Hippodrome (Roman entertainment center), sort of. The Sultanahmet Mosque is commonly called the Blue Mosque after the 20,000 hand-painted tiles on the interior walls. It pairs well with the Hagia Sophia, not only in proximity but also as a complementary experience. While Hagia Sophia draws the attention upward, the Blue Mosque induces inward reflection. Hagia Sophia makes me go Wow! Blue Mosque makes me go ahhh. One more… Hagia Sophia makes me feel small. Blue Mosque makes me feel peaceful. There’s a lot happening on the walls, with all the painted tiles, but the atmosphere is light and serene. Continue reading
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