There is a Turkish saying, “Zemheride yoğurt isteyen, cebinde inek taşır” – “The one who wants yogurt in midwinter carries a cow in his pocket.” We’re lucky to be in the heart of summer, as our pockets aren’t big enough for cows. In fact, Istanbul natives know that yogurt is the ideal antidote to the city’s sweltering heat. With its powerful health properties and addictive taste, yogurt is a fermented friend to rely on: slurp down some cooling yogurt soup, dollop it on the side of bulgur pilav, drizzle it with garlic over crispy mantı, or sip it in the form of salty ayran.
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Category Archives: Turkey
NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 59

Pamukkale is located in southwestern Anatolia, a 4 to 5-hour drive inland from coastal attractions such as Ephesus, Bodrum, Marmaris and Antalya. The closest major attraction is Aphrodisias, roughly halfway between the coast and Pamukkale (less than 2 hours driving). Pamukkale is known as the “Cotton Castle” because of its dramatic travertine terraces formed by hot-spring deposits of calcium carbonate. The Romans built the thriving spa town of Hieropolis here and besides the natural wonders there are some nice ruins to explore.
Can you name that country?
See below for answers.
WOW Places – the theater at Pergamum, Turkey
The world’s steepest ancient theater appears to be sliding right off the acropolis of Pergamum. Don’t worry, it has been hanging on for 2,000 years. Imagine all the many thousands of performances staged right here, with the sweeping valley view as a backdrop. Just out of the picture, dazzling marble remains are scattered across the mountain top; and the Temple of Dionysus, the foundations of the great Alter of Zeus and the agora are terraced into the slope off to the side.

YIKES!
Pergamum was an important Greco-Roman city, home to 200,000 people at its peak. The 3rd largest library of antiquity was here and people from all across the Roman world came for health and wellness treatments at the Sanctuary of Asclepius. One of the Seven Churches of Revelation was in Pergamum and it’s a common stop on Christian pilgrimage tours of Turkey.
Pergamum is about 15 miles from the Aegean coast, 60 miles from Izmir, the closest airport, and 110 miles from Ephesus. The modern town on the site is Bergama.
Sinan the Architect

Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey
The great Ottoman architect Sinan had a long, illustrious career spanning most of the 16th century, the height of Ottoman power. His work pretty much set the tone for subsequent Ottoman architecture
Sinan’s parents were Christian Greeks and, as part of the system known as Devsirme, Sinan was taken as a young boy, converted to Islam and educated and trained to serve the empire. This system arose out of the practice of enslaving prisoners of war during the early years of the empire. By Sinan’s time, the system was meant as a way to balance power among the ruling classes by offering non-Turkic sons the opportunity to reach elevated positions.
Sinan was drafted into the elite Janissary corps of the sultan’s standing army.
There he served as a construction officer, working on bridges and fortifications.
In his extensive travels around the empire as a soldier he was exposed to many great buildings. He distinguished himself as a brilliant engineer and in 1538 was appointed by Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent as head royal architect. He served in that position until his death in 1588.
Sinan built over 360 buildings, including mosques, medersas (Koranic schools), mausoleums, hospitals, aqueducts, public baths, palaces and mansions. His mosque designs were influenced by the Hagia Sophia, with a hovering central dome and open, airy interiors. In his exteriors he used smaller domes and half-domes to draw the eye upwards to the central dome.
One of his first buildings was the Sehzade Mosque, built to mark the death of the sultan’s son.

Sehzade Mosque, Istanbul
Perhaps his best known building is the Suleymaniye Mosque, which commands a prominent spot overlooking the Bosphorus in Istanbul. Like many of Sinan’s mosques, Suleymaniye comprises a complex with schools, a hospital, baths, shops, a kitchen and stables, in addition to the mosque.

Suleymaniye Mosque, Istanbul
The Selimiye Mosque in Edirne was one of his late projects and is generally considered his masterpiece. It has some of the tallest minarets ever built and the dome equals that of Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia in diameter.

© Nexus7 – Selimiye Mosque Interior Photo
Sinan is buried in a modest tomb of his own design in a garden near the Suleymaniye Mosque.
Want to see some of Sinan’s work in person? Click here to see Turkey tours.
Foto Friday – Turkey
Happy Friday! Let’s celebrate with some happy photos taken in Turkey by our friend Sue Alstedt. There are a couple from Istanbul but most are from the Bodrum area.














NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 49

The city of Konya in the south-central part of our mystery country is best known as the long-time home and resting place of Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi-Rumi, a 13th-century Persian poet, scholar and Sufi mystic. He is commonly known simply as Rumi or Mevlana, which means “our guide.” The Mevlevi religious order was formed by Rumi’s son in the years following his death. The order follows the spiritual teachings of Rumi, which include the Sema ceremony. Entranced participants spin and rotate as a group to connect with the fundamental spinning nature of the universe. This is the ceremony popularly known as the dance of the Whirling Dervish. The Sema can be viewed by visitors in Konya and other cities around the country.
Rumi’s tomb, pictured above, has been a place of pilgrimage for 700 years.
Can you name that country?
See below for answers.
How the Hodja Saved Allah: a Turkish Folktale
One day, a wise old Hodja (teacher, scholar) in Istanbul was leading his young students as they committed a passage of the Koran to memory. The Hodja himself knew the sacred book backwards and forwards. So many years had he taught it, he could recite it in his sleep without a single error. Although he had recited and listened to that day’s passage countless times before, this time he was seized by the message like never before: “Those who spend their money in the service of God are like a kernel of corn, from which grow seven ears, each containing one hundred kernels. God bestows manifold gifts on whom he pleases.” As he spoke the words, a brilliant light switched on in the mind of the Hodja and he knew he would be secure in his retirement.
He sent his students home for the day and proceeded to count his life savings. Careful figuring based on the compound appreciation promised in the verse would result in a payout of 1,000 piastres, a fortune! The Hodja immediately went into the streets, handing a few coins to each needy soul he encountered, until every last cent was gone. He was flat broke but thought himself a rich man, certain that 1,000 piastres were already on the way. Having helped a good number of destitute neighbors felt pretty good too.
That night, he was grateful for his simple dinner of bread and olives, but found himself dreaming about the occasional roast he would enjoy with his pending wealth. The next day, he had only bread to fill his stomach, and still no 1,000 piastres, but he did not despair.
On the third day, there was still no money and his cupboards were bare. Hungry and weak, his faith tested, he walked into the open fields beyond the city walls, reached to the sky and beseeched the Lord to take pity on His good servant. He cried and moaned and shook his fists.He was preparing to throw himself to the ground and wallow when a fearsome howl stopped him cold.
It was the voice of a certain wandering Sufi monk, who was quite out of his mind and terrorizing the area. Normally, wandering Sufi monks were welcome guests. This one was unpredictable, even violent, and from the sound of it, he was just over the horizon, and heading toward the Hodja. With surprising speed and agility, considering his advanced age, the Hodja climbed high up into a tree, there being nowhere else to hide.
The crazy monk came right up to the tree and sat down beneath it. He was wailing and lamenting, not only for himself but for the whole world. He cried out to God, “Why is there so much pain in the world? What’s the point? Why was I born? Why was anyone born only to suffer and die? Why?? Why?!! All my life, I have prayed for relief but to no avail. Now, I know what I must do to avenge the misery of mankind!”
He reached into a leather pouch at his side and pulled out a small figure, which he addressed as Job. He said, “down through the ages, you have been held up as a great example of patience and faith. In your name we are taught that forbearance brings reward. But this is not true. Many suffer with no end. I will punish you now for your bad counsel.” With his sword, the monk cut off the head of the figure he called Job.
Then he took another figure from his bag. This one he called David. To David he said, “you wrote songs of peace and love, but lived a sinful life. For misleading mankind with your pretty words, I will punish you.” And he cut off the head of the David figure.
The third figure to come out of the bag represented Solomon. The monk said, “Solomon, for centuries, you have been revered for your wisdom and vast knowledge, but you were not always wise. You did some bad things that brought suffering to countless many. I shall cut off your head.” And he did.
Next, the monk pulled a figure from his bag which he called Jesus. “Jesus, you came into the world, suffered and gave your own life so that mankind would know peace. You were a great prophet, yet the church founded in your name brought war after war. All that misery must be avenged.” Off came the head of the figure called Jesus.
The next figure from the bag was Mohammed. The monk said, “Mohammed, like Jesus, you were a great prophet, but so many suffered and died the world over in your name, you also must be punished.” Off came the head of the Mohammed figure.
Then the monk touched his forehead to the ground and stayed there in silence for several minutes. When he rose, he brought another figure from the bag. “Allah, you are all powerful. Mankind is your creation, all the good and all the evil in the world ultimately comes from you. I cannot punish your prophets and not also punish you.” As he raised his sword to chop of this final Ultimate Head, a shout came from the tree above, “STOP! He owes me 1,000 piastres!”
The monk was so startled, he dropped to the ground in a dead heap. The Hodja sat motionless in the tree for a good 30 minutes but the monk did not stir. The Hodja tossed a few twigs down at the monk and got no response. He climbed down from the tree and checked for a heartbeat. Sure enough, the monk was dead.
When he put the Allah figure safely back into the monk’s pouch, he discovered that it was full of gold. He poured the coins on the ground and counted out exactly 1,000 piastres. He looked toward Heaven and said, “Allah, I never doubted you would keep your promise, but,” he added, “not before I saved your life.”
How to Visit a Mosque

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi
Most Ya’lla Tours itineraries include visits to one or more mosques. These are some of the most exquisite buildings anywhere, must-see sites for their artistry as well as their cultural importance. Like all sacred places, mosques have certain expectations around attire and behavior. Here are some things to know: Continue reading
Foto Friday – More Nature
Köpoğlu – Turkish Meze Recipe

The excellent Istanbul restaurant Meze by Lemon Tree is owned by good friends of Ya’lla Tours. (A meze is an appetizer.) When you’re in Istanbul, do check it out.
The restaurant has received rave reviews in dozens of publications and the Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence 2012, 2013 and 2014.
Chef Gençay Üçok has been kind enough to share several of his recipes with me for publication on this blog. Continue reading

