Jerash, Jordan

Roman theater, Jerash, Jordan

Roman theater, Jerash, Jordan

Gerasa (modern Jerash), 30 miles north of Amman, is the second most visited tourist site in Jordan, after Petra, and one of the world’s most extensive Roman sites outside of Italy.

There is evidence that the area has been inhabited since the Neolithic period but serious development began with the Hellenistic Greeks in the 3rd-century BCE. The city grew and prospered under Roman rule and was a member of the Decapolis, ten politically important city-states in the far eastern reaches of the empire. At its height, in the 2nd-century CE, 20,000 people lived in Gerasa.

Temple of Artemis, Jerash, Jordan

Temple of Artemis, Jerash, Jordan

The ancient remains sprawl across an elevated, rolling plain with the modern town and cultivated fields looking on from the surrounding slopes. Much has yet to be uncovered. Demonstrations of gladiator fights and chariot races take place in the hippodrome every day except Tuesday. For three weeks each summer (around late July-early August) the site hosts the Jerash Festival, an acclaimed arts festival with theater, music and dance performances staged among the ruins.

Oval Plaza, Jerash, Jordan

Oval Plaza, Jerash, Jordan

Click to see Jordan tours that include visits to Jerash.

NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 64

Known as the “Citadel,” the site pictured above is located on the highest of seven hills that make up Amman, the capital city of our mystery country. The area has been continuously inhabited at least since the Bronze Age and excavations have only scratched the surface. Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad remains have been uncovered to date, including the Roman Hercules Temple above, a water cistern and palace from the Umayyad period and a Byzantine church. The national archaeological museum is also located at the Citadel.

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Madaba, Jordan – City of Mosaics

The modern city of Madaba Jordan sits on top of multiple layers of previous inhabitation, going back some 4,000 years. Walking around town you can see the remains of buried structures poking up through the grass. Among Madaba’s excavated past (and probably the unexcavated as well) is a large collection of mosaic floors, walls and ceilings.

After being mostly abandoned for almost 1,000 years, Madaba began to be resettled in the 1880s by Arab Christians. The first mosaics were discovered as they mined the ancient rubble to build their new town. In 1896, the famous mosaic map of the holy land was found and excavation and preservation of Madaba’s mosaics has continued pretty steadily ever since.

St. George’s Church – This is where you’ll find the mosaic map that put Madaba on the map. A modern-era church stands atop the remains of a 6th-century Byzantine church, the floor of which contained this detailed depiction of the Mediterranean basin. The map was originally over 1,000 square feet but only about 1/4 remains.

the famous Madaba Map

the famous Madaba Map

detail of the famous Madaba Map

detail of the famous Madaba Map

Archaeological Park – This fine open-air museum encompasses the remains of several churches and houses including, of course, some very good mosaics.

Hippolytus Hall mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Hippolytus Hall mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Church of the Virgin mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Church of the Virgin mosaic, Madaba Archaeological Park

Archaeological Museum – Here is a nice little collection of mosaics from Madaba and the vicinity, as well as other artefacts and cultural displays.

Church of St. John the Baptist – Climb the bell tower for sweeping views, then explore the maze of passages that burrow through the hill underneath the church.

Church of the Apostles – If you really can’t get enough mosaics, walk a bit away from the city center to the Church of the Apostles, which houses a beautiful, large mosaic floor.

Church of the Apostles mosaic, Madaba

Church of the Apostles mosaic, Madaba

Um er-Rasas – This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, although it seems utterly forgotten. Hidden in the expansive field of debris, you’ll find Roman, Byzantine and early Muslim ruins in early stages of excavation. The most spectacular discovery to date is the beautifully preserved mosaic floor of the Church of St. Stephen. The site is about 19 miles south of Madaba.


This photo of Um er-Rasas (Kastrom Mefa’a) is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Wadi Jadid – For a nice juxtaposition to the detailed, micro-artistry of Madaba’s mosaics, travel about 6 miles to the southwest to find a field of megalithic tombs from the 3rd millennium BCE. Most of the dolmens are tumbled down but there are enough standing to give a very satisfying sense of mystery and extreme ancientness.

dolmen at Wadi Jadid, Jordan

dolmen at Wadi Jadid, Jordan

Madaba is located along the famous King’s Highway, about 20 miles south of Amman.
It pairs nicely with visits to Mt. Nebo, Bethany Beyond the Jordan and the Dead Sea.

To see tours to Madaba click here.

WOW Places – Mt. Nebo, Jordan

Mt. Nebo is traditionally believed to be the site from which Moses viewed the Promised Land of Canaan. After taking the 40-year route from Egypt he was stopped just short of his goal because he had disobeyed a command of God. He died shortly after and was buried in an unknown place nearby.

Looking west, as Moses did, the view from Mt. Nebo sweeps across Jericho and the Dead Sea to the Judean Hills, Bethlehem and Jerusalem and northward up the Jordan Valley.

Remains of a Byzantine church are incorporated into the modern church on site, which houses some very nice mosaics.

The serpentine cross sculpture at the edge of the summit is a dramatic, modern addition.

Mt. Nebo is about an hour drive south of Amman and combines well with visits to Madaba, Bethany Beyond the Jordan and the Dead Sea, all within a short drive.

Click to see tours to Mt. Nebo.

NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 55

This rock formation overlooking the Dead Sea is known as Lot’s Wife. Thanks to the shrewd negotiations of Abraham, Lot and his family were spared from the fiery destruction of Sodom but were warned not to look back as they fled. Lot’s Wife, who is never named in the biblical text, did look back and was instantly turned into a pillar of salt. Read more about Sodom and Gomorrah here.

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NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 45

In the south-east of our mystery country, tens of thousands of petroglyphs and inscriptions in Wadi Rum are evidence of human habitation going back 12,000 years. Across three hundred square miles of protected desert, you’ll find red sand dunes,  mountains, narrow canyons snaking between sheer towers of granite and sandstone and a small population of Bedouins, living much as their ancestors have done for thousands of years. Spend a few hours exploring Wadi Rum by 4X4 with a local guide or stay for several days, sleeping in a Bedouin camp. Cultural and historical sites are often the main attraction in our mystery country, with Wadi Rum as a short side trip, but “adventure” activities such as hiking and rock climbing in the country’s wild places are increasingly popular.

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How to Visit a Mosque

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi

Most Ya’lla Tours itineraries include visits to one or more mosques. These are some of the most exquisite buildings anywhere, must-see sites for their artistry as well as their cultural importance. Like all sacred places, mosques have certain expectations around attire and behavior. Here are some things to know: Continue reading

NAME THAT COUNTRY Episode 36

 You might not expect to find such a lush place in our mystery country, which is largely desert. This small green ribbon is in the far west of the country. The river pictured forms part of the western border. This specific place has been a site of Christian pilgrimage since the 4th century, if not before. The Greek Orthodox church in the distance is a modern addition but the remains of ancient churches and lodgings for pilgrims are scattered around the site. Excavations only began 20 years ago, after our mystery country and its neighbor to the west made peace.

Can you name that country? What about the site?
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Foto Friday – Beaches

Beach holidays are not our specialty. For the most part, American travelers do not cross the Atlantic ocean to lie on a beach. However, many do work a couple of R&R days into otherwise busy cultural itineraries. In any case, while much of the US is still suffering the epic winter of 2015, we offer this brief, mental escape to gentler climes.

Abu Dhabi, UAE

Abu Dhabi, UAE

Paradise Beach, Corfu, Greece

Paradise Beach, Corfu, Greece

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