Plaza de Armas
This is where Havana was founded, originally the governmental and ceremonial center of the city, where military exercises and parades were held. Today, you’ll see lots of book sellers, a shady park and the Hotel Ambros Mundos, where Hemingway lived for a while. The stately 18th-century Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which now houses the Havana Museum, forms one side of the square and Castillo de la Real Fuerza fortress is nearby.
Plaza de San Francisco de Asis
Havana’s 2nd oldest square is named for the 16th-century Church and convent of St. Francis of Assisi that overlooks the wide-open square from the south. The church is now a museum and concert venue. The weekly concert schedule is posted just inside the main entrance. For great views over Habana Vieja and the harbor, climb the church’s 138-foot bell tower. This square is usually more laid-back than other parts of the Old City, a good place to catch your breath. It opens onto the harbor so there’s a chance of nice sea breezes there. The Lion’s Fountain is charming, the old stock exchange building looks very important and the Sierra Maestra ship terminal is a festive gateway to Havana from points far and wide.
Founded in 1559, this was originally the residential area of the city’s elite. The square was an entertainment venue, with bullfights, public celebrations and executions. Most of the buildings around the square have been renovated as part of the larger restoration project begun in the 1980s after UNESCO declared Old Havana a World Heritage Site.
Plaza de la Catedral
This square dates from the 18th century and is named for the Baroque Cathedral of Havana, dedicated both to the Virgin Mary and St. Christopher. The area was a swamp and then a naval yard before becoming one of the poshest neighborhoods of colonial Havana. The square is surrounded by beautifully restored, grand old mansions, some of which house bars and restaurants. The Museum of Colonial Art is here. This is one of the liveliest squares in the old city and it’s especially impressive and atmospheric after dark, when the cathedral is illuminated.
After walking around Habana Vieja for a few hours, you’ll surely need a drink. El Floridita, with its gleaming hardwood bar and red-aproned bar tenders, is a stylish place to rest your feet and wet your whistle. It’s famous for being the hangout of Ernest Hemingway and he’s still a fixture, although in bronze now, on his corner stool.
Casa de Africa, Habana Vieja
African influence in Cuban culture is enormous. This little museum illuminates the Afro-Cuban heritage with exhibits on slavery in Cuba, Santeria (the Cuban religion based on African, Catholic and indigenous traditions), art, music, dance and everyday life. There’s also a nice collection of modern African art from all over the continent.
Convento de Belen, Habana Vieja
This is a community center primarily for seniors and disabled children run by nuns. It’s a beautiful place, full of love and caring. Visitors are welcome. If you’re planning to leave donations in Cuba, this is a place to do so. They’re clearly making a difference in the lives of many people.
Callejon de Hamel, Centro Habana
A narrow, 2-block alley, completely swallowed by wild, brilliant Afro-Cuban murals, sculpture, music and dance. It’s a trip. Sunday afternoons are especially frenetic, with Rumba in the streets. It’s become quite touristy and overrun with peddlers but it’s fundamentally authentic, created for and by the local people.
Museum of Fine Arts, Centro Habana
This national museum shows large collections of Cuban and international art in two palatial buildings. In the Palacio de Bellas Artes, see Cuban paintings and sculpture from 16th-century to the present. The nearby Palacio Centro Asturiano houses works from Asia, Europe, Latin America and the United States, as well as the largest collection of ancient art in Latin America, including Roman, Greek and Egyptian.
Cementerio Cristobal Colon, Vedado
No kidding! If I had to pick one thing to do in Havana, it would be an agonizing decision, but this spectacular cemetery would be a strong contender. It’s vast, with over a million graves, so a guide is recommended. It’s really an open-air museum of art and history. The monuments and mausoleums are beautiful and moving and they come with some really good stories.
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